I don’t usually comment on the runway shows, since you know, there are people who do that for a living and all. But in this case, I just could not resist because this collection is too much like a huge traffic accident with bodies and body parts lying everywhere.
See, some runway collections awe by their beauty. Some collections shock, some entertain, some make sense. Some leave you saying ‘WTF?’
Hedi Slimane’s inaugural collection for Saint Laurent is in the WTF category. Flipping through the runway shots, you could definitely see what inspirations moved SLimane: Phantom of the Opera. Diane Keaton in Annie Hall. Your grandmother’s best jacket for weddings, and other important events. And these looks, which seem to have snuck in from another collection, maybe one inspired by LOTR? and of course, for a final movie reference, So, Jedi Knight You Want to Be?
It is a pretty tight collection, in that everything was black. But any sense of focus or direction stops there. The materials and the silhouettes are busy and incomprehensible. Lace-leather-chiffon-feathers-sequins-more-stuff-my mom’s art studio-Michael’s entire retail bead SKUs. There’s nothing wrong with any one of those materials. The silhouettes were just goofy juxtaposed together: Flowing robes-men’s wear-dominatrix chic-capes-hats.
There were some nice individual looks and features: I particularly liked the sharp men’s wear details and yes, the fedoras, but in a more wearable style. Ditch the pussy bows (yeah, it’s been a YSL feature for a gazillion years, but this collection wasn’t aided by it.
I guess the one nice thing about this collection: no prints. This may sound funny coming from someone who spends a lot of her time developing textile prints, but seriously, have you walked into a retail store this fall? Overdone and ugly prints. We at least were spared that in Slimane’s debut collection.
Well, there’s always next season. Hopefully he won’t be trying so hard and can at least remove the kitchen sink from the next collection.